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Back to the wall: cycling Berlin's Mauerweg

As the 30th anniversary of its fall approaches, a cycle ride along the route of the Berlin Wall reveals a once-divided city now open and welcomingIt makes for delightful cycling: dappled sunshine, a smooth path, birds in the trees. The only clue that this isn?t just any woodland trail is the height of those trees: the oaks and beeches are young, barely three metres tall.That?s because we?re riding on what, until 1989, was the ?death strip? ? the zone between Berlin?s inner and outer walls, filled with tripwire machine guns, trenches and dogs, and guarded by soldiers in watchtowers. This ...
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